A whole chicken cut into eight pieces, marinated overnight in a green paste of coriander stalks, garlic, grated ginger, red chilli, soy and grape seed oil. Grilled over hot coals until the skin chars and the marinade locks the flavour into the meat. Lime over the top at the end.

This sits in the broader Southeast Asian green-marinade family that includes the Thai gai yang, the Vietnamese ga nuong sa and the Indonesian ayam ungkep. The defining move is using coriander stalks (rather than just the leaves) for the deeper, more savoury herbal note; the stalks bruise easily under the pestle and release more of their volatile oils than the leaves do.

Grape seed oil is the right choice for the marinade. Neutral in flavour, high in smoke point, it carries the aromatics into the meat without competing with them and stands up to the direct heat of the coals without burning. Olive oil substitutes but throws an unwelcome fruity note.

Break the chicken down so each piece cooks at its own rate: the breast pieces need less time than the legs and thighs. Marinate for at least an hour, ideally overnight in the fridge. Grill over moderate coals (not flame-screaming hot), turning every few minutes, until the skin chars and the juices run clear. Lime wedges and a green papaya salad alongside.