Adam D'Sylva's hunter's chicken is the Sunday dish that runs all afternoon and asks nothing of you in return. Bone-in thighs go skin-side down into hot oil until the fat renders and the skin crackles, then come out to make room for onion, garlic, anchovy, capers, olives and a fistful of grape tomatoes that burst against the heat.

The braise builds on bay, thyme, parsley and red wine: the tomatoes collapse into a rough sauce, the chicken slides back in, and the pot moves to a slow simmer for an hour and change. The meat slips from the bone with the lift of a spoon. The sauce holds together with the gel from the bones, the fat from the skin and the sugar from the tomatoes, no thickening required.

Serve with bread for soaking, or with soft polenta if you want something more upholstered. The flavour deepens overnight, so leftovers, gently reheated, are arguably better than the first sitting. A bottle of something Tuscan and unfussy is the right partner.