Cream warmed to seventy-five degrees, melted into grated dark chocolate with a pinch of salt, set into small pots in the fridge for at least an hour. Topped with a torch-burnt slice of orange dusted with brown sugar and a scattering of roasted hazelnuts. Restaurant dessert, kitchen-table portion.

The seventy-five-degree technique is the chef's number that splits the difference between a too-cool emulsion (the chocolate won't melt evenly) and a too-hot one (the cream proteins denature and the texture goes grainy). A digital thermometer takes the guesswork out; if you don't have one, the cream should be steaming but not simmering, with bubbles only at the very edge of the pan.

Grating the chocolate rather than chopping it ensures even melting. Stir gently with a spatula until the mixture turns glossy and uniform; over-whisking introduces air bubbles that mar the smooth surface as the pot sets.

The burnt-orange topping is the modern French move. Slice the orange across the segments into 5mm rounds, dust with brown sugar, and torch the sugar with a kitchen blowtorch until it caramelises into a glassy crust. The bitterness of the burnt sugar against the rich chocolate is the textural counterpoint that makes the dessert work. Roasted hazelnuts cracked over the top. A small glass of cold dessert wine or a cup of espresso alongside.