Curly Fettuccine with Fennel and Fish Ragù

1. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to the boil. Trim the fennel, reserving the delicate fronds for serving.

2. Cut the bulbs in half lengthways, remove the tough core and finely slice. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat.

3. Add the fennel, season with salt and cook for 6–8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to caramelise.

4. Don’t rush this step, this is where the fennel develops its sweetness and becomes the backbone of the sauce. Add the garlic and chilli flakes, if using, and cook for 30 seconds until fragrant. Add the fish and increase the heat.

5. Cook for 1–2 minutes, turning gently, then add the white wine. Allow it to bubble for a minute before adding the tomatoes.

6. Season with salt and pepper and cook over medium-high heat for about 8–10 minutes, stirring gently once or twice, until the fish is cooked through and the sauce has reduced and become glossy.

7. The fish should remain in distinct, tender pieces rather than breaking down completely.

8. Meanwhile, cook the fettuccine until just shy of al dente. Use a slotted spoon or spider to lift the pasta directly from the cooking water into the ragù, bringing some of the starchy water with it.

9. Toss over medium heat for 1–2 minutes, adding a splash more pasta water if needed, until the sauce clings to the pasta.

10. Remove from the heat and finish with the chopped parsley, and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. Scatter with the reserved fennel fronds and serve immediately.