Diana Chan grills a whole snapper rubbed with Old El Paso fiery spice mix, flakes the flesh into hard taco shells, and finishes with shredded iceberg, a pineapple salsa, and a hard squeeze of lime. Tacos with the integrity of the whole fish behind them.

Cooking the snapper whole rather than as fillets keeps the flesh moist: the bones conduct heat evenly and the skin protects the meat from drying out. Slices of lemon go into the cavity, the cavity gets a heavy salt, and the whole fish wraps in foil before going onto a hot barbecue or into a 200-degree oven for twenty minutes until the flesh slides off the bone with a fork.

The pineapple salsa (fresh pineapple, lime juice, finely diced red onion, coriander) is the Mexican counterweight to the spice rub. The sweetness of the fruit against the chilli is what makes the taco read as Yucatan rather than generic Tex-Mex.

Hard shells are non-negotiable here; soft tortillas go soggy under the fish and salsa. A spoon of sour cream, a fistful of coriander, and a cold Pacifico. Eaten over a plate with both hands.