Lemon, mascarpone and pistachio loaf cake

Silvia Colloca's loaf cake. Ground pistachios folded into a lemon-zested batter enriched with olive oil and mascarpone, baked into a tender loaf that smells like a Sicilian garden. Cake that holds for days and improves on day two. Slice thick, serve with coffee.

The ground-pistachio-as-flour technique is the Sicilian baking move that gives the cake its specific moist crumb and faintly green colour. Pistachios contain natural oils that keep the cake tender for days without going stale; the protein structure works similarly to almond flour in a French frangipane, binding the batter while contributing rich, buttery depth. Use whole shelled pistachios ground fresh in a food processor; pre-ground pistachio meal is often stale and loses its oils.

Olive oil (rather than butter) is the modern Italian baking choice that suits this style of cake. The oil keeps the crumb tender for longer, doesn't cloud when cold (the way butter does), and contributes a faint fruity note that pairs with the pistachio. Choose a mild extra-virgin olive oil; a robust, peppery oil would overwhelm the delicate batter.

Mascarpone whisked through the batter is the structural cream component that gives the loaf its cushiony soft texture. The Italian cream cheese sits between sour cream and clotted cream in fat content; the result is a moist, dense loaf with the slight tang of a cheesecake. Lemon zest in the batter and lemon juice in the icing tie the whole cake together; rest the loaf overnight before serving for the flavours to deepen. Coffee on the side, no notes.