Born in Chengdu's back-alley kitchens in the late 19th century, mapo tofu lives or dies on its ma-la rhythm: the prickle of Szechuan peppercorns against blistered chillies and slick doubanjiang, the fermented broad-bean paste that gives the dish its red-brown colour and deep funk.

Silken tofu is the right choice (firm tofu sits too dense in the sauce, doesn't wobble the way it should) but it has to be blanched first in salted water for a minute to firm the surface so it doesn't break apart in the wok. Mushrooms here add an extra meaty layer; the original uses ground beef or pork, but this vegetarian rendition substitutes the texture without losing the structure.

The doubanjiang is non-negotiable. Get the Pixian variety from any Chinese grocer; nothing else gives the same colour and depth. Toast the Szechuan peppercorns in a dry pan first to bring out the citrus oil, then crack them with the back of a knife so they release their numbing tingle into the sauce.

Serve over short-grain white rice with sliced spring onion on top. Comfort food with a slow burn, the kind of dish that improves with every reheat in the fridge.