Mussels and clams sealed in a foil parcel with garlic, ginger, chilli, BBQ'd lemon and blistered tomatoes. The packet steams open at the table to release the smoke and brine in a single rush. Shoreline cooking done over coals.

The foil-parcel cooking technique (en papillote in French, hobo packs in American camping cookbooks) is the lazy genius of seafood over coals. The shellfish steam in their own juice, the citrus and tomato break down into a quick sauce, the ginger and chilli season the broth that pools at the bottom of the parcel.

BBQ'ing the lemon and tomatoes first is the small upgrade that lifts the dish. Hot coals char the lemon's cut surface (which sweetens the juice when squeezed) and blister the tomato skins (which releases the flesh and juice). Both go into the parcel already showing colour and depth, rather than just providing raw flavour.

Fold the foil into a tight, sealed packet so no steam escapes during the cook. Eight to ten minutes over moderate coals is enough to open the shells and cook the flesh through. Open the parcel at the table with a knife so everyone sees the steam billow up. Bread for soaking the broth, crusty and torn rather than sliced. A glass of cold Albarino or a Provencal rose. Eat with hands at a long outdoor table.