Diana Chan's penne mac and cheese held together by a one-pot roux of butter, flour and milk, blanketed in cheddar that goes molten under the grill. Garlic powder, dijon mustard and a grating of fresh nutmeg keep the sauce honest. Comfort food, served by the spoonful.

The one-pot method (cooking the pasta directly in the bechamel-thinned-with-water rather than draining it separately) is the modern American shortcut popularised by recipe sites in the last decade. The starch from the pasta thickens the sauce as it cooks; the result is creamier than the classic two-pot method and uses one fewer dish.

The cheese pull is the trick. Cheddar for the colour and the sharpness, parmesan for the umami, mozzarella shredded on top for the stretch. Under a hot grill for three minutes until the surface goes bubbled and bronze.

Nutmeg is the secret weapon, the same way it sits inside a classic French bechamel. Grated fresh into the sauce off the heat, it sharpens the dairy without anyone being able to name what they're tasting. Serve with a green salad to balance the richness, or just a fork and a couch.