Diana Chan reuses leftover roast chicken in puff-pastry pies built on a saute of celery, leek, brown onion and garlic, finished with cream, baby capers and parsley. A round of all-butter puff over the top, egg-washed, baked golden. The kind of pie that disappears at the table.

The key to a non-sad chicken pie is keeping the filling dry enough to support the pastry. Reduce the cream filling on the stove until it coats the back of a spoon before you ladle it into ramekins; too wet and the bottom of the pastry steams instead of crisping.

Leftover roast chicken is better than fresh-poached for this. The slight dryness of the leftover meat absorbs the cream sauce; the rendered chicken fat in the meat adds depth no fresh breast can match. Shred by hand rather than dice for better texture.

The capers are the modern flourish, the brine cutting through the cream the way lemon would, without watering down the sauce. Serve with a green salad dressed in mustard vinaigrette to balance the richness; a glass of cold Pinot Grigio alongside. Individual ramekins beat one big pie for portion control and crust-to-filling ratio.