Sugo, Olives, Artichokes and fior di latte

Silvia Colloca's pizza topped with simple sugo, marinated artichoke, black olives and torn fior di latte. The cheese held in big chunks so it melts in pools instead of disappearing. Classic Italian topping combination, finished with good olive oil.

This is the Italian pizza convention done right: simple toppings, generously distributed, no kitchen-sink approach. The triangle of vegetables (artichoke, olive, tomato) is the southern Italian pattern; the choice of fior di latte (the cow's-milk mozzarella) over the more expensive bufala mozzarella di bufala is the household economy that defines proper home cooking. Save the bufala for the simple margherita where it can speak.

Tearing the cheese into big chunks (rather than slicing or grating) is the small technique that improves the finished pizza. The chunks melt more slowly and form pools of cheese against the crust rather than disappearing into a uniform layer; the textural variation across each slice is what makes the pizza feel alive rather than industrial.

Marinated artichokes (from a jar in olive oil, drained well) bring a tangy-Mediterranean depth that fresh artichokes can't quite match without serious prep work. The acidity in the marinade cuts through the cheese and ties the topping together. Black olives roasted briefly first to concentrate their flavour. Bake at 220 degrees for fifteen to twenty minutes until the cheese pools and the crust crisps. Drizzle with extra olive oil at the table; a glass of cold pinot grigio.