Watalappan is the steamed coconut custard that closes a Sri Lankan feast. Built on kithul jaggery (the dark, smoky palm sugar pressed in the hill country), thick coconut milk, eggs and yolks whisked together with crushed cardamom and a pinch of nutmeg, then set in a bain-marie until it holds the back of a spoon but trembles when nudged.

The sugar carries the dish. Kithul brings woodsmoke and burnt caramel notes that white sugar can't fake, so look for the real thing at a Sri Lankan or South Indian grocer rather than swapping in muscovado. The jaggery dissolves slowly in a saucepan with a little water before being whisked into the eggs; lumps in the jaggery mean lumps in the custard.

Bake at 160 degrees in a water bath for around an hour, until the centre still wobbles when the dish is tapped. Pull it out before the surface goes fully set; the residual heat will finish the cook as it cools.

Serve at room temperature with a drift of toasted cashews and, if you have it, a spoon of jaggery syrup over the top. Scales easily for a crowd, holds well in the fridge for two days, and the spice deepens overnight as the cardamom and nutmeg marry into the coconut.