Five large prawns butterflied flat against a screaming-hot griddle, the flesh sweetened by a quick rub of chilli, garlic and coriander. Olive oil for the pan, salt and pepper to finish. Twelve minutes from kitchen to table.

Butterflying matters here. Run a sharp knife down the back of each prawn, keeping the head and tail intact, lift out the digestive tract, and press the prawn flat with the heel of your hand so it cooks even and curls into the shape that holds the marinade. The shell stays on to protect the flesh from the direct heat and to crisp at the edges.

Mediterranean grill cooking, the kind of thing that lives on Greek-island taverna menus and shows up on the Spanish coast as gambas a la plancha. The garlic and chilli are non-negotiable; coriander is the modern flourish that pulls it into a Vietnamese or Thai register.

Serve with a wedge of lemon, a bowl of aioli or skordalia, bread for the juices, and not much else. A glass of cold Albarino or a beer from the fridge. Eaten with fingers, shells stripped at the table, heads sucked if you're with the right crowd.