Diana Chan's Korean kimchi stew: deeply fermented cabbage simmered with thin-sliced porterhouse, gochujang and gochugaru until the broth turns crimson and unmistakable. Spicy, sour, soulful, the Sunday-night dish in a Seoul apartment when the weather turns.

The age of the kimchi matters. Young kimchi is too crisp and clean; you want the jar that's been at the back of the fridge for a month, where the cabbage has gone soft and the brine smells faintly of cheese. That fermentation is what gives the stew its depth, and what no amount of chilli paste can fake.

The pressure cooker shortcuts what would normally be a forty-minute simmer down to ten. Silken tofu goes in at the end so it doesn't break apart; the spring onion and sesame oil hit the bowl just before serving. The porterhouse, sliced 2mm thin, cooks in seconds in the boiling broth.

Serve in a hot bowl with steamed short-grain rice on the side and a small dish of more raw kimchi for anyone who wants to dial it up. A cold lager (Hite or Cass, ideally) cuts the heat.