Scott Pickett's chicken-frame soup. The whole carcass simmered down for an hour or more with leftover veg (potato, carrot, onion, celery), thyme, bay and smashed garlic, until the bones release their gelatin and the stock pulls together with deep amber colour. Noodles go in last; greens at the very end.

The whole-frame method is the proper restaurant trick. Don't pick the meat off first; let the bones and any clinging meat go into the pot together. The connective tissue around the joints releases the most gel; the marrow inside the leg bones throws richness; the skin adds fat for the broth.

Chop the frame into smaller pieces with kitchen shears before simmering so the bones release more surface area to the water. Skim the foam off the top in the first ten minutes; after that, let it bubble gently rather than boil hard, which would emulsify the fat and turn the broth cloudy.

Noodles in for the last five minutes (vermicelli, fresh egg noodles, even spaghetti broken in half), greens in for the last minute. Salt and pepper at the end. A wet Tuesday dinner that earns its keep, and proof that nothing should leave the kitchen unused.