Pappardelle con Sugo di Involtini

With

Silvia Colloca

Pappardelle with slow-braised beef involtini in a deep savoury tomato sugo.

PREP

MINS

Cook

MINS

SERVES

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About this recipe

Silvia Colloca's thin beef fillets rolled around parsley, garlic, parmigiano and capocollo, browned and then slow-braised in tomato until the sugo runs deep and savoury. The pappardelle holds the heavy sauce; the involtini come out at the table whole. Italian Sunday food, no compromise.

Involtini (literally little rolls) are the structural Italian dish that exists across the country in countless variations: chicken, veal, beef, eggplant, all wrapped around different fillings and braised in different sauces. The southern Italian preference (the Sicilian, Calabrian and Pugliese versions) is for beef rolls stuffed with cured pork (here capocollo), herbs and cheese, then slow-cooked in tomato until the meat surrenders.

The two-stage cook (high-heat sear first, then slow braise) is the technique that builds both flavour and texture. The hard sear in olive oil develops the Maillard browning that gives the sugo its depth; the slow simmer in tomato (at least two hours, ideally three) breaks down the meat's connective tissue and lets the flavours marry through the sauce. The longer it cooks, the better the sugo.

Pappardelle (the wide flat egg pasta from Tuscany) is the right pasta because the broad ribbons carry the heavy meat sauce without getting lost under it; thinner shapes like spaghetti would slide around the bottom of the bowl. The involtini themselves are removed from the sauce and served whole alongside the dressed pasta; cutting them at the table reveals the spiral of cured pork and cheese inside. A glass of Sangiovese, Chianti or a Salice Salentino.

Ingredients

For the Involtini:

8 thin minute Steaks (about 150 g each)
100g D’sorgna capocollo
100 g grated Floridia Parmigiano
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Extra virgin olive oil, for frying
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 cup red wine
2 cans (400g) crushed tinned tomatoes
1 cup water (or as needed)
2 x bruised garlic
small piece of capsicum
Toothpicks

For the pasta:

400g San Remo Nidi Pappardelle (fresh or dried)
Salt, for the pasta water
Freshly grated parmigiano, to serve
Freshly cracked black pepper, to serve

Method

Prepare the involtini, lay your beef slices on a board and beat with a meat cleaver to flatten further. Finely chop your parsley and then add in your garlic.
Assemble the involtini’s by topping each one with a slice or two of capocollo, your parsley and garlic mixture, and a generous sprinkle of parmigiano. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Roll each beef slice tightly and secure with a toothpick.
Heat a large, deep skillet or pot over medium-high heat with a generous drizzle of olive oil. Add some garlic bashed with your knife, add the involtini and brown them on all sides until golden, season with salt.
Pour in the red wine and let it reduce slightly, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the crushed tomatoes and water, stir well, one piece of capsicum, and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer.
Cook low and slow. Lower the heat, cover the pan, and simmer for about 2 hours, or until the meat is tender and the sauce has developed a rich depth of flavour.
Once the involtini are cooked, bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Drop in the pappardelle and stir.
While the pasta is cooking, remove the involtini from the sauce, along with the two garlic cloves, take out the toothpicks. Slice the involtini’s into halves and set them aside on a serving plate.
Lift the cooked pappardelle straight from the pot into the pan with the sauce. Toss well to coat, letting the pasta absorb the flavours. Add a handful of grated parmigiano and some freshly cracked black pepper, and toss again.
To serve: Spoon the pasta onto a large platter. You can place the involtini on top for a striking presentation, or arrange them on the side. Finish with more parmigiano and parsley, and bring it to the table while everything’s still warm and fragrant.

Silvia Colloca

Silvia Colloca is a Roman-born cook, opera singer and cookbook author who has spent the last decade documenting the regional cooking of Italy from her home in Sydney. She fronts Silvia’s Masterclass, working through the country one mother-recipe at a time. Her style is patient: fresh pasta by hand, long-rise focaccia, sauces built slow.