Scott Pickett's chocolate mousse. Good dark chocolate melted slowly over a pot of boiling water, eggs whipped to ribbons with sugar, gold-strength gelatine softened in iced water, and 400ml of semi-whipped cream folded through. Orange juice for lift. Sets cold in an hour, gone in five minutes.

The distinction between gold and platinum gelatine matters here. Gold is the standard restaurant choice (softer set, cleaner mouth-feel); platinum is firmer and reads more like a jelly. The mousse wants the soft set so the texture stays airy rather than rubbery.

Fold the chocolate into the egg mixture in three additions rather than all at once. The first addition lightens the chocolate base so the next two don't deflate the eggs. The cream goes in last, folded with a spatula in long sweeping motions; over-folding breaks the air and turns the mousse heavy.

The orange juice is the brightener. A small amount (50ml here) cuts the richness of the dark chocolate without making the mousse taste of orange. Set in individual glasses or ramekins so each portion holds its own. A spoon of softly whipped cream and a few chocolate shavings on top before serving. Espresso on the side.