Scott Pickett halves a whole cauliflower through the stem into thick steaks and roasts them in butter until the edges char and the centre softens through. Green olives and toasted macadamias added at the end for salt and crunch; sultanas for a touch of sweetness. A side that holds its own as a main.

The steak approach (cutting the cauliflower with the stem intact so each piece stays in one slab) is the same trick that turned broccoli into a restaurant centrepiece. The cauliflower flesh holds together for handling and the cut sides bronze hard against the pan.

Start in an oven-proof fry pan cut-side down in a generous slick of olive oil and a knob of butter; the butter starts to brown after a few minutes and bastes the cauliflower with a nutty depth. Transfer to a hot oven (180 to 200) for ten minutes until the centre softens to a butter-knife test.

Green olives (the meaty Spanish queens or Sicilian Castelvetranos rather than the small French Lucques) for salt; capers for brine; macadamias for the Australian sweet-nut note. A handful of sultanas plumped in warm water, a squeeze of lemon, chopped parsley and chives. Anchovy is the optional umami upgrade. Served warm or at room temperature.