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Vegetable Ishtu

Keralan vegetable stew in coconut milk with cardamom, cinnamon and curry leaves.

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About this recipe

A gentle Keralan vegetable stew of beans, carrot, potato and baby turnip simmered in coconut milk with cardamom, cinnamon and curry leaves. Quiet on the heat, generous on the aromatics. Serve with appam or steamed rice for a clean, comforting plate.

Ishtu is the Keralan adaptation of the English word stew, a leftover linguistic legacy of the British presence in the region. The dish itself is purely Indian (coconut milk base, whole spice tempering, no chilli) but the name and the structural intent (a mild, soothing one-pot vegetable simmer) hint at the colonial-era culinary cross-pollination.

The whole-spice tempering at the start of the cook is the technique that defines the dish. Cloves, cinnamon stick, green cardamom pods all bloomed in coconut oil for thirty seconds before any vegetables go in; the spices stay in the pot throughout the simmer and infuse the coconut milk with their fragrance. Pick out the larger pieces (the cinnamon stick especially) before serving.

Baby turnips (the small, white, sweet variety with the tops still on) are the unexpected vegetable that lifts this past the standard mixed-veg curry. Cut into quarters and added with the harder vegetables (carrot, potato) so they cook through; soft enough to eat with a spoon but holding their shape. Green chilli sliced lengthwise (rather than chopped) adds heat without dominating. Coriander leaves over the top to finish. Serve with appam or steamed basmati, with a small dish of mango pickle on the side.

Ingredients

- ½ tbsp coconut oil

- 1 onion, diced

- 2 tbsp water

- 2 cloves

- 1 inch cinnamon, broken

- 2 pods cardamom

- Pinch salt

- 100g beans

- 1 carrot, peeled and chopped

- 5 baby turnips, cut into quarters

- 1 potato, cut into cubes

- 2 green chillies, thinly sliced

- 1 inch ginger, peeled and cut julien

- 1 cup water

- 1 tsp salt

- 2 cup coconut milk

- 1 stem curry leaves

- 100g snow peas

- 100g green beans

Method

1. ½ bunch coriander, leaves

2. In a large pot heat ½ tbsp coconut oil and the diced onion, 2 tablespoons of water, cinnamon and cardamom. Add a pinch of salt and saute for a few minutes over a medium heat, do not brown the onion.

3. Add carrot, potato, turnip, green chilli and ginger saute for a minute.

4. Add 1 cup water with a pinch of salt. Cover and allow to simmer for 5 minutes or until the vegetables are just tender.

5. Add coconut milk and curry leaves. Mix well and bring the coconut milk up to a simmer. Add snow peas and green beans, stir through the liquid and cook, uncovered, for 3-5 minutes or until the greens are tender.

6. Top with coriander leaves to serve. This dish is wonderful with idiyappam or appam.

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